Jackie, Franziska, and Weed Pie

World, we’d like to introduce you to two extraordinary women: Jackie Milne and Franziska Ulbricht.  Both are food security advocates in Hay River, both know far more about farming/wild food than we ever will, and both were kind enough to chat with us when we were in the Northwest Territories.

HayRiver-19.jpg

Jackie Milne was born in Hay River, and after farming in Port Alberni for years, she moved back to her hometown with her husband.  Andrew Cassidy described her as having “singlehandedly spearheaded every local food security initiative in the area,” and it was clear upon meeting her that’s she’s a remarkable woman who’s generous with her knowledge.

HayRiver-18.jpg

When she and her husband moved back to Hay River, they bought a piece of land that hardly seemed farm-worthy; it was in an industrial area, and solid brush.  Just a few years later, however, they’d cleared, built up the soil, and now have project after project on the go, including workshops to teach people about growing food in the north.

HayRiver-17.jpg

As well as being president of the Territorial Farmers' Association, Jackie's an innovator.  Take her passive solar greenhouse, for  example; in the summer they grow food in it, one side of it acts as a root cellar in cold months, and Jackie’s developing a barley fodder system, which can grow food for animals during the winter.  She uses the greenhouse not only to produce and store food, but also as a teaching tool during her workshops, and has included a childrens’ ‘nook’ so kids can join their parents while they attend.

HayRiver-16.jpg

She’s also built a big multi-purpose cooler, utilizing a little device called a Cool-Bot.  It was developed by a farmer, and tricks air conditioners into creating the temperature you desire; in the summer she can bring it down to zero, and in the winter she can use it to heat the space, creating a root cellar that stores food all winter. 

HayRiver-21.jpg

In her greenhouses, Jackie showed us various techniques she uses for creating healthy soil (there was nothing but dust when she started), and fed us a radish pods, a first for both of us. 

HayRiver-20.jpg

She said radish plants create far more food if you let them go to seed and harvest the pods, which are mildly pepper, crunchy, and SO GOOD.  With her brassicas, she ‘harvests’ them before it frosts by taking their entire root systems out of the ground and replanting them in totes.  They go into a stasis, and are kept alive in her root cellar until she needs them later in the winter. 

Jackie1.jpg

Her next project is a larger field where she’d like to grow more, and eventually have sheep.  She’s currently got nature working for her to breakdown the stumps and other leftover forest remnants.  She inserted “Chicken of the Woods” mushroom plugs into the spruce stumps, and slowly but surely, they’re breaking down the wood into rich soil.  Plenty of herbivores are aiding in the process.

HayRiver-44.jpg

Franziska Ulbricht is originally from Germany, but after years of travel, she decided to make Hay River her home.  She’s an artist, forager, cook, and co-founder of the Hay River Commons, a co-operative dedicated to sustainability, community works, arts and crafts, agriculture, and the promotion of local small-scale economic opportunities.  One of their first projects was to develop a winter market, where people would have a place to gather once a week, vend, exchange ideas, listen to music, and of course, eat good food.

Franziska’s contribution to the market was the Real Food Café, a project on which she worked closely with Jackie Milne.  Supplied throughout the winter with Jackie’s produce and utilizing local berries, jams, pickled foods, fish, foraged greens, and mushrooms, Franziska cooked up homemade, rustic, and creative meals each week and served them to a loyal clientele. 

She said people truly appreciated being able to eat fresh food that was actually from Hay River, and she loved the freedom she had to experiment with ingredients, like using pickled nasturtium seeds instead of capers. 

Franziska also cooked for Jackie’s groups of agricultural students, providing them with lunch and dinner during their three-day workshops.  They were enthusiastic eaters, she said, who especially loved going on foraging walks where they’d pick mushrooms, as well as fireweed shoots and plantains to make “weed pie.” 

large3.jpg

This is a recipe from Beverley Gray’s incredible (and much utilized by northerners) book “The Boreal Herbal.”  Franziska talked about weeds in a way I’d never considered before; she said we should be eating strong plants, because they’re the best for us.  And what could be stronger or more resilient than weeds!  We’ve got to stop looking at them as a nuisance, and instead see them as dinner.

HayRiver-42.jpg

She also gave us a taste of another recipe she’s tried from Gray’s book: dandelion petal mustard.  Pretty, and very tasty. 

There, now you too can be inspired by the work of Jackie and Franziska.  Perhaps like us, you'll now view weeds a different way, and cause your friends jaws to drop when you invite them over for weed pie....

HayRiver-25.jpg


-LA

*Photos of the Real Food Cafe ingredients and foraging walk provided by Franziska Ulbricht.

Road Kitchen: Forest Paneer

HayRiver-11.jpg

We were too busy eating birch syrup and giant cinnamon buns in the Yukon to do much cooking.  As soon as we reached the NWT, however, we hauled out the camp stove and fired ‘er up!

In our box of cooking supplies I’d hastily packed when moving out of my place, I found a bag of cheesecloth.  Only I, Lindsay Anderson, would forget proper pajamas but remember to pack cheese-making supplies. 

We had milk, vinegar, measuring cups, a colander, and an entire free evening, so I figured why not?  Let’s make paneer in the woods!

cheesecloth1.jpg

It’s far less complicated than it sounds.  Far less.   

I used this recipe by Meeru Dhalwala and Vikram Vij; as long as you follow the steps, it turns out perfectly every time.  Usually I drain the curds in a clean sink, but since I was lacking one, I jerry-rigged a cutting board over the campfire and rested our big water jug on top, then let the whey drain into the ashes below.  It worked quite well, and funnily enough, this was the best batch of paneer I’d ever made!

We cut it into cubes, tossed it in a fresh tomato, spinach, garlic, and cumin sauce, and served it over brown rice.  It was easy, filling, healthy, and incredibly satisfying to eat at a picnic table next to Great Slave Lake.  India via Vancouver via the Northwest Territories!

HayRiver-12.jpg

Paneer
 By Meeru Dhalwala, Vikram Vij

½ cup water
8 cups whole milk
¼ cup white vinegar or fresh lemon juice

Pour water into a medium, 8-inch high heavy-bottomed pot.  Then add milk.  Turn the milk to medium and wait for the milk to start boiling: a commercial stove takes about 15 minutes, a gas stove takes about 20 minutes, and others may take 20-25 minutes.  Do not stir the milk.  As the milk nears the boiling point, watch it very carefully, with vinegar (or lemon juice) in hand.  Milk will start to rise in the pot.  Once it has risen 3 inches, turn off the heat immediately, and gently swirl in – but do not stir in – vinegar.  You want it to go throughout the milk in the pot, and not just into one spot.  Allow the milk to sit for 10 minutes while the milk solids separate from the liquid. 

Place a colander in the sink.  Cover it completely with cheesecloth.  Slow and carefully pour milk into the colander. 

HayRiver-09.jpg

Allow milk solids (paneer) to sit in the colander for 15 minutes, or until the extra water has drained into the sink (we sat the colander over a bowl since we didn’t have a sink).  Gently gather the four corners of the cheesecloth, and tie them together to completely enclose the paneer. 

HayRiver-10.jpg

Half-fill a medium pot with water.  Place the wrapped paneer either in the sink or on the counter next to the sink (or on a cutting board perched over a campfire pit), so the water from the paneer can drain away.  Place the pot of water (or water jug) directly on top of the paneer and press it down gently.  This will both flatten the paneer and help it release some of its water.  Once the pot can easily balance on the paneer, allow it to sit for 15 minutes (for a soft paneer) to 1 hour (for a firmer paneer).  Soft paneer is meant to be eaten more like cottage cheese.

Remove the pot, untie the cheesecloth, and gently slide on hand under the paneer.  Transfer to a plate or cutting board.  Use immediately or keep refrigerated, lightly wrapped in plastic wrap, for up to five days.

We cut ours up and served it in a sauce inspired by this recipe, but you could use it in anything!

Happy camp cooking.

-LA