Surrounded by Curious Beasts

Any Canadian living in the 21st century has heard of Alberta beef, but how many people’s dinner plates have benefited from the country’s recent bison renaissance? Bison were abundant in North America for around 10,000 years, and in 1800, there were over 60 million bison roaming the continent.  The First Nations were deeply connected to the animal, relying on them for almost everything: food, clothing, tools, and more.  By 1899, the arrival and settlement of European communities, the introduction of unsustainable hunting practices, and culling, the bison population fell to just under 1000. 

The presence of bison today is the result of a huge conservation effort throughout the 20th century.  Ranchers and conservationists kept private herds and some herds were protected in national parks.  There are now approximately 500,000 bison on the continent, with 240,000 of those being in Canada, and about half of those residing in Alberta.  Bison populations are now stable and protected.

On our drive through Northern BC, we ran into a pack of wild bison sunning near the highway, but kept our distance because anyone who has scoured YouTube for bison attack videos knows this is what you do.  On a visit to Maple Hills Bison Farm, owned and operated by Gustav Janke just outside of Edmonton, we found ourselves planted within a herd of about 100 bison.  I’ve been known to tremble before a horse.  (I know, I know, a horse? But seriously, those animals KICK people!) I respect the space of wild animals, which is to say, I am reverently afraid of them. 

When we first got there, we drove way out into the middle of their field and were quickly surrounded.  Bison may be wild, but their first instinct is not to attack.  Gus explained that they are simply very curious animals, and will exhibit explicit warning signs if agitated: stomping, head shaking, and an upright tail.  There was one tame bison that was bottle fed as a calf—he was a cuddly beast, sidling up beside me and even letting me give him a noogie.

Everything about these beasts seems larger than life.  They are the largest North American land mammals, their eyes are roughly the size of my fist, and they have incredibly thick shoulders, neck, and head, with lean back ends that make them look comically out of balance. 

At birth, they are roughly 40 pounds, and can run within an hour of hitting the ground.  A herd of bison can run sustained speeds of 30 miles per hour, and jump a 5-foot fence both ease and grace.

If you want to get a sense for just how big these beasts are, wrap yourself in a bison hide.  Not only will you immediately start sweating, but you’ll look incredibly glamorous. 

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The hides are so warm, they were used to make coats worn by early RCMP on the prairies.

There are certain advantages to raising bison over cows.  They eat about two thirds less than cows and, because of their slower metabolisms, can break down food better, resulting in leaner meat.  Because bison are hearty winter survivors, they don’t require any shelter or wind protection, as cows do.  Bison are completely wild and independent beasts, built for survival. 

Maple Hills Bison Farm, in addition to raising bison on their natural diet, is also off the grid.  The farm has an all-season, solar powered, automatic water pump system.  

The bison are butchered and packaged just 42 miles from the farm, and distributed by Gus himself.  Contact Gus directly at bisongus@live.ca to get your hands on the meat of one of Canada’s oldest (and biggest) heritage land beasts.

-DV

Chasing Stories, Knowledge, and Greens

I didn’t expect to go to Europe while in Edmonton, but that’s exactly what we got when we visited Kevin Kossowan.

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We sat at a weathered wooden table under an apple tree, the air a bit hazy from the cob oven, a trellis of grapes within view, and homemade charcuterie in front of us.  How could we not  feel like we'd gone abroad?

Kevin is a local food innovator, with his hands in many an Edmonton pie.  His fleet of projects include Story Chaser, a video production company with a focus on agriculture and food; Shovel and Fork, which provides workshops on craft food production including charcuterie, fermentation, raising backyard hens, and cob oven construction; and Lactuca, an urban ag business he runs with partner Travis Kennedy.  They supply Edmonton’s best restaurants with micro-greens grown in their own backyards. 

They’re dedicated to building up a successful urban ag business model, and by the looks of it, they’re doing pretty well.  I'm not sure if Kevin actually sleeps, but I was too busy admiring his cob oven to ask.

We had the amazing fortune of joining Kevin for lunch.  The meal included a frittata made with his hens’ eggs, local butter, Lactuca greens, edible flowers, and foraged mushrooms.

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He’d scored a bunch a day or two earlier, and the caps and stems were laid out on his dining room table to dry - an exquisite graveyard of fungi.

His Lactuca micro-green ‘greenhouse’ boxes are arranged tidily around his yard; he and Travis use a simple yet incredibly effective type of box gardening with lids, meaning they can trap geothermal heat (giving them a longer growing season), and protect the greens if it rains or hails, simply by closing the lids.  With these kinds of methods, a huge amount of food can be grown in very small spaces. 

Shovel and Fork’s head teaching instructor, Chef Chad Moss (and his adorable blondie son, Max), also joined us for lunch. 

Chad is the company’s charcuterie guru, and contributed various kinds of salumi to our lunch, as well as homemade Red Fife bread  and cold-smoked salmon. 

The meal was phenomenal, and we drank homemade apple cider to wash it all down. 

Thanks to Kevin and Chad for this most gorgeous, lazy, sunlit summer lunch.  People of Edmonton - don't bother buying a ticket to Europe!  Just take a few Shovel and Fork classes and you'll be ready to setup your own piece of French or Italian countryside in the backyard. 

We'll leave you with one of Kevin's videos featuring two of our very favourite peeps, Dana and Cam of Joy Road Catering:

 -LA